# 4 | Excellent Snorkeling From The Beach in Amed Bali
Amed Day 1 (Day 25 in Bali)
Once again the day has come where we have to depart and go to our next destination. We packed our bags, loaded the scooter and said our goodbyes to the lovely owners.
The distance from Pemuteran to our accommodation in Amed is again 135km and will take 3 hours. So we decided to stop every 50km travelled, at least we’ll get a short break and rest a bit.
Given we had planned these breaks and divided the trip into, the journey didn’t seem to be so exhausting. In fact was quite easy going apart for 1 time nearly skidding into a truck.
We arrived at the accommodation at about 3:00pm, went to our room, took a shower and rested for some time.
We later on went for dinner at Gusto Resto and Cafe. The restaurant is set atop a hill and I imagine it offers a great view but we came here at night so didn’t have much to see.
Amed Day 2 and Day 3
For the next 2 days we worked on content for the website. Actually, we tried to work. Our accommodation’s internet connection isn’t that great and even if we connect to the mobile, data connection is still slow. Therefore everything takes much longer to finish.
So for next destination we visit we shall consider getting a wifi hotspot key which hopefully will be better.
Not much to say about these 2 days, we only went out of our room for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Breakfast and lunch was at our homestay and every time the owner would ask where we are going. Our answer, “we’re staying here today”. I don’t know what the owner thinks we’re doing in the room, maybe she thinks we’re doing something naughty?
On these 2 days we went for dinner at Warung Ole and Nad Brahma.
Warung Ole is exceptional and we both had a great meal. The cheerful owner also offers cooking classes and if I have the time I shall take a try at discovering some local cuisine preparation. Originally I had planned to take a cooking class in each country we visit but I’ve still to attend one. So that didn’t quite go to plan.
The other place, Nad Brahma is an Indian vegan restaurant. Food was good on average I’d say, but was for sure pre cooked. Also prices are extremely high when considering what you get. Plus the service wasn’t that good. The waiter seemed grumpy and was constantly sniffing up catarrh thus making disgusting sounds.
Amed Day 4
Our plan from now on is to do all our sightseeing during the morning and try to be back by 2:00pm. I came up with this plan after reading my daily blogs and realizing the blogs aren’t quite what I want.
I was writing the daily blogs after 2 or 3 days and although detailed, there still seems to be something missing. What is missing is that I was writing in the past. From now on everything should be NOW or at least today and not 3 days ago.
In fact what I would really want to do is write on the spot to really capture the moment in words. But for now I’ll stick to once a day as my writing still isn’t that great and I take quite some time to come up with the right words.
So now that I’ve said all that, I can finally begin writing down our day.
One last thing so that I don’t keep repeating the same thing. Whenever we go out for an activity we always try getting there by 6:30 at the latest.
Today we went to Bukit Cinta Pangi for sunrise. I’m not sure if this place has an English name but didn’t seem to be so popular given there was only 27 reviews on google. But it turns out this place is well known. Not even in Ubud did we find anybody whenever we went so early.
The viewpoint we have come to overlooks Gunung Agung (Agung volcano). The volcano is huge and at the foot are the green colourful rice fields. From here we saw a street that passes through the rice fields. We tried reaching this street but didn’t have any luck and ended up in a warung where we had a coffee and I got myself a nasi campur.
Finally I bought a meal and felt as if I wasn’t ripped off. 21k IDR for 2 coffees and a full plate including egg, pork, sausage, tofu and rice not bad, I think I paid the actual price.
Just this morning I stopped to buy some packed campurs, again the lady told me 10k IDR each. I told her 5k IDR and she was ok. The thing is that these packed things actually cost 3k IDR, I think.
As you may have noticed I tend to jump from one thing to another, I’m working on trying to focus more. So back to the warung.
While at the warung a guy came and sat near us, I was rolling a cigarette and he asked for one. I gave him a cigarette and we started talking about lots of things. One thing was that he is the owner of this quite big shop and that he has a bunch of animals.
When we were leaving he invited us to his house. So we drove behind him and got there within 2 minutes. What amazes us here in Indonesia is what a simplified life these people have. This guy has pigs, goats, ducks, chickens and a large field with people working for him. So seems quite well off but still his life is really simple. No bunch of useless stuff like us westerners, just the daily life needs and its enough.
We got into a conversation and was offered to come stay in his house and what I could understand is that he wants to start renting out a room which is not used.
His English wasn’t so good but I tried to explain that the room would be good enough for me but if he wants to rent it out he would need to make a bit of improvements. I’m not sure if he got what I was explaining.
We left from here and drove for about 15 minutes until we reached Ujung water palace. The entry fee is 50k IDR and another 2k IDR parking fee. We went in and walked around the nice gardens that surround the pools.
Children were on a school outing and as this part of Bali doesn’t get so many tourists, many of the kids were amazed to see such humans. We also took a few pics with the kids.
We hadn’t yet seen any beaches here so went to a beach which was recommended by the guy that we met in the morning. The beach we went to is Virgin beach or Pantai Putih. A white sandy beach with strokes of black sand and clear water that unfortunately was a bit rough but we still managed to take a dip.
In Bali, every single thing has a fee. Why the fee for a beach I don’t know but may be to maintain and for any clean ups needed to be done. The fee for Virgin beach is 10k IDR and at least the beach was very well maintained.
The annoying part was crossing along the beach. Shops line the beach and which rent out deck chairs. So while we were walking along the beach we got at least 6 people offering us a deck chair. Although this is normal in touristic areas, what annoyed me most was the fact that these vendors were literally standing just a couple of steps from one another and saw me refuse the first offer so why should the rest bother asking. After the third guy I just ignored the rest. I did feel as if I was being disrespectful but then again I felt stupid walking along and in a rythmic way saying, no thank you.
We found a sweet spot, put down our things and went in for a dip. We were only in the water for a couple of minutes when boats started coming in. It was quite obvious that this was where the boats dock cause this part of the beach was lined with a few other boats.
So we picked up our things and moved further away from the boats.
We didn’t stay here too long so it was once again a walk along with a rhythmic no thank you.
We got back and still had 4 packed nasi campurs. So after taking a shower we indulged in this local food which every time is different, sometimes for the better and other times may not be so tasty.
Once again we had dinner at Warung Ole. Jacqueline had a sweet and sour chicken which unfortunately the pineapple in cooked meal wasn’t to her liking.
Amed Day 5
Just got up, it’s 4;30am and I’m barely seeing what I’m writing so I will probably edit this. We’re going to a viewpoint that is 45 minutes away.
I will try writing on the spot, see how the post turns out.
I am writing as I walk down the hill of Gumang. We arrived at the foot of the hill just as the sun started to rise and we had no idea that we would need to trek uphill for about 45 minutes.
This is also home to a large number of monkeys and at first Jacqueline was a bit worried. But everything was alright. The only time monkeys have become aggressive is when we’ve looked them in the eye.
This, and trying to get a close up picture really pisses them off. I’ve had occasions where monkeys came running towards me with teeth flung out and with that aggressive look.
The trek was a bit challenging but was worth it, the only downside was that the actual view of a volcano that we came for was covered in clouds therefore the view wasn’t so good.
We are now on our way to Candidasa as it is just a 5 minute drive away.
Didn’t manage to write everything on the spot. One reason was cause I was going to end up writing every single thing, which will end up being of no use.
We got to Candidasa and I did something I would never imagine doing back home. I ordered chicken pieces with fries, at 8:00 in the morning. Haha, this was the first time I’ve eaten something so heavy so early in the morning.
As today is just 2 days before the full moon, the sea has started to get quite rough so we decided to skip swimming and headed to a nearby old village, Tenganan Pegeringsingan.
We had to leave a donation to enter the village and we also got a guide who explained some things about the village. It is always interesting to know how well preserved the Balinese culture still is.
We went for lunch in the same place I had breakfast the day before. The owner was there and immediately came to greet us and sat with us at the table. I would surely recommend this place (Pondok Wirasa Gulai & Sate Kambing) if in the area and wanting some authentic food. But be aware that most things are precooked and spicy, so choosing spice level isn’t an option.
Now we are back at our accommodation and have planned to go out in a few hours to a good sunset point at Jemeluk Bay.
We came to sunset point just in time to find a front row table. We sat down, ordered 2 Bintang and waited for the sunset to unfold. The sun sets from right behind Mount Agung and offered us with a spectacular experience.
All the street leading up to this viewpoint bar, offers the same view but what stood out was the fact that all the view has been shut off with steel sheets.
The fact that this view has deliberately been closed off made me wonder how greedy some people are and also I’m angry that I even bothered coming.
Here I was suddenly reminded of the kids in Cambodia who always came on us begging, Dolla, dolla, dolla. At the time I gave plenty of “dolla” but that was only a 3 week trip.
Here instead of “dolla” it was “ten thousand, ten thousand” 10k IDR and you get a bracelet. I didn’t buy a bracelet but now that I’m thinking about it I’ll probably stop by and get 1 or 2.
For dinner we went to the first restaurant that came up when I googled steak house Amed. The restaurant was ‘The Grill’. I wasn’t quite sure how the steak would be so I asked if I could see the cut. The steaks where frozen which means the meat isn’t fresh and also decreases the quality of the cut. So we decided to have one burger and a rib eye.
The burger was good and to my surprise the ribeye was well above what I had expected.
Amed Day 6
Amed is most known for the good snorkeling and incredible marine life but up until now we still hadn’t yet explored any of this.
We have listed 5 snorkeling spots but I guess we’ll only manage to visit 3.
Our first snorkeling spot was between Amed and Jemeluk beach.
Once we got close to the area we had another task to locate the entry point to the beach. Reason for this is that many beaches are closed off by buildings, warungs, hotels and the only access will be through a metre alley which make it quite hard to locate.
We got to the beach and as always my mask was constantly getting water inside or either getting fogged up. Once I had sorted out the frustrating part of getting the mask right, I was finally good to go.
Just a few metres off the sandy beach I was like, WOW. How is this possible, 10 metres or even less from the beach the ocean bed is literally sprawling with underwater life.
I spent over 1 hour snorkeling around and everywhere there was something different.
Some fish are strange and curious and it was normal to get an occasional fish come to get a closer look only to suddenly jut off.
We didn’t quite spend as much time as we wanted here because we had other beaches planned.
As planned we got to the next beach which was Lipah beach and we stayed right in front of Pondok Vienna. Although the sea bed is similar to the first beach, water was quite shallow. Corals were about half a metre below our body which wasn’t so comfortable for me. But Jacqueline did manage to stay swimming around the corals through parts which were sandy. I think that the tide was low so maybe in high tide would be much better.
Neither of us stayed too long snorkeling so after having some lunch from a beach front warung we were off to a Japanese ship wreck which is only 10 minutes ride away.
At last this beach’s access was easily located. I can’t really find a name for the beach but we found it by simply writing Japanese ship wreck.
The beach is made up of large pebbles and although smooth it made walking quite difficult especially when barefoot.
We got in the water, I had another few minutes arranging the darn mask and then we swam to the wreck.
The wreck was easily located cause it lies just below 2 buoys.
Visibility wasn’t the greatest but still we could easily see the ship. The ship lies on a sort of underwater cliff, so one part is only a couple of metres below the surface and it seemed that a big part is down below the cliff.
I didn’t stay too long in the water as I didn’t manage to arrange my mask thus I wasn’t so comfortable swimming with water in my mask.
Jacqueline spent some time in the water and was impressed by the amount of fish she saw. At some point a huge amount of small fish swam towards her and in a synchronized way just split up and carried on.
Waters are quite deep around the wreck but still Jacqueline managed to find some good snorkelling spots with beautiful corals and fish.
By the time Jacqueline came back ashore it was nearly 2:30 pm and as we had other activities planned we needed to get back to the guest house.
Our plan was that we’ll go to the peak of Mount Seraya but that’s where the plan began and ended. We hadn’t checked anything about reaching this peak so we were in for a surprise.
Travel time was 1 hour and we left 1 ½ hours before sunset.
The route to Seraya is through the jungle and the streets aren’t that great but I do somewhat enjoy avoiding the potholes. Passing by isolated villages we felt everyone was happy to see new faces. All the children would come screaming, ello, ello, ello and the eldest smiled and greeted us with a head gesture.
Parts of the route was along 50cm wide paths and at some points we thought we were heading in the wrong direction. Fortunately these roads or paths always lead to a proper street.
Most of the uphill roads where easy going but the closer to the peak we got, the more steeper the roads got. So steep that certain times I wondered if our scooter would even manage the task.
Thankfully we’ve got a good bike and it managed to handle this challenge.
The road ended in a small parking area and from here we continued on foot through a small path along the edge of these jungle mountains.
We were amazed to see that in such a remote location, there are still quite a few people living here. The mountains are scattered with houses and cultivate their own means of living. Cows are in the sheds and pigs and chickens run freely.
I’m not sure if these villagers envy us westerner but I surely envy their simple lifestyle. We were walking along this very narrow path that lead beside a few houses and at one point heard scooters. I thought, possibly they ride along this street? Yes about 3 or 4 scooters passed by and we literally had to squeeze ourselves to pass by.
I don’t know what would happen if they came across a bike coming in the opposite direction but for sure there would be a problem.
By this time we were about 15 minutes from sunset so we checked how long we would need to walk to reach the peak.
Here is where the surprise came. The trek would be 4.5 hours so we obviously didn’t carry on further.
We quickly went back to our scooter to avoid travelling all the way back through pitch black, bumpy and narrow roads.
Sun was beginning to set and we were slowly going down the steep hills and hoping to come across a good lookout.
This was going to be a great sunset. Sky was turning a beautiful pink colour and the moon was increasingly getting brighter. We turned around one of the many sharp curves and there it was, a great viewpoint overlooking the mountains covered in jungle and the distant shoreline and ocean.
Being in the middle of a narrow street, taking pictures isn’t the best of places. So we soon moved on and continued on our way back.
Riding along one of the main roads I spotted a street stall selling something deep fried. I had seen this kind of food on various occasions while riding through certain areas but was always going to fast which would have been dangerous to stop.
Finally, since I managed to see the stall from quite a distance I stopped. I didn’t know what the food was but who doesn’t love deep fried food.
Two girls were picking out what they wanted and once they had paid it was my turn. Not knowing what to order I just asked the lady to give me the same as the girls.
This is where things got a bit awkward. The girls told me that it would cost 10k IDR to get the same food as theirs. The thing is that I had seen them hand out 7k IDR. I was like, “what? I was standing beside you and saw that you paid 7k IDR, so now it costs 10k IDR?”
The vendor didn’t say anything about the price and I didn’t need to ask cause I already knew what the price was. So I can’t really understand what these girls were to gain if I had paid more.
The food was fried tempe and tofu and was crunchy and delicious but then got a little too much. Like other fried food I can only eat a small amount before all the oil starts making me feel a bit sick. But for some reason we still gobbled the whole bag.
The fried things were just a snack so we stopped for a proper meal 5 minutes further along the road.
The restaurant we stopped for dinner is Green Jwo. The restaurant caters to locals therefore prices are reasonable. With 65k IDR we had fries, quesadillas, noodles and 2 ice teas.
Amed Day 7
Our last day in Amed was chilled out and relaxing. Firstly, we didn’t set an alarm so that we wouldn’t wake up so early and most importantly we didn’t plan anything.
We spent the day in the area and started off by going to a ceremony beside the beach. The ceremony is something to do with the full moon and is similar to other ceremonies we had been to.
Locals were dressed in their traditional clothing and were gathered beneath the shade of the trees. A group of men were playing the Balinese instruments in scorching sun. Kids running around or fighting with plastic pipes.
We were in the middle of this harmonious gathering and were the only odd ones out, other tourists came with a guide and were wearing the traditional clothing. We were just 2 tourists, taking a look at what was going on.
Locals may have thought this is something new for us but wasn’t. A few days before we had seen one of the most intense ceremonies which included people dancing with a dagger pressed to their chest. That did impress us to the point that I personally was overwhelmed at one point.
The tourists that were dressed in traditional clothing stared at us. I had 2 opinions on why the awkward stares, either they were saying, “look at these 2 they’ve come here and didn’t even bother putting on a sarong, how disrespectful of them” this wasn’t in a temple so I don’t think we needed a sarong, and there were locals in shorts too. Or either opinion 2 was that the tourist’s guide had told them that they must rent an outfit to go to the ceremony. So when they noticed not everyone was wearing these clothing they may have felt cheated and lied to.
Sun was beating hard and was getting a bit too much to handle, so we went into the centre to get a cold drink. We stopped at Joli Best View Amed.
From this cafeteria we got an unobstructed view overlooking Jemeluk bay surrounded by mountains and Mount Agung.
From here the view is by far better than sunset point Amed which was obstructed by the construction site and didn’t have any shelter from the sun and prices were more expensive.
Seeing the beautiful clear waters of Jemeluk bay we decided to go for a swim. We didn’t intend staying so long so we didn’t rent a mask and as I had my goggles they would be enough.
The black sand was scorching hot so we quickly went in the water. I put on my handy goggles and started snorkeling while Jacqueline kept a watchful eye to ensure nothing attacks me :D.
The clear waters offered great visibility and lots of beautiful fish were undisturbed by my presence. Seeing so many people snorkeling I imagined this to be one of the best I would find. But to me, the ocean bed wasn’t so colourful and some parts are littered with dead corals making look a bit creepy.
The fact that we were offered with stunning views and our drinks were extremely good we decided to go back to Joli for lunch. My nasi campur and Jacqueline’s chicken were both excellent and thinking of this I need to write a good review for this place.
Through a quick search I found a great cheap beach front restaurant for dinner. The locally owned restaurant is laid back and has a really relaxed atmosphere.
With 35k IDR for a large beer I thought this isn’t something you find everyday so quickly ordered another. Food was also very good and at 35k IDR for each dish. I had pork and Jacky had fish cooked in banana leaf. We spent 175 k IDR for two meals, a side of fries, 2 large beers and 1 ginger tea.
➳ Now you might want to check our guide to Amed which includes 2 day trips to East Bali attractions. Link below.